Isles of Scilly

A midsummer offshore passage, dolphins in the Bristol Channel, fresh lobster on a white-sand beach, a limoncello spritz at Old Grimsby, and a weather window that tempted us across the Channel to Brittany. Three days that turned a weather window into the kind of summer you sail for.

Slipping Lines

We left Milford Marina just before noon with freeflow - no locking this time - and made our way down the channel. A big tanker was being led to the docks by tugs, so we had to wait for him to pass before we could continue out of the Haven.

South of Milford Haven lies another military firing range, which is active during the week. Luckily our weather window fell on a weekend, so it wasn't a concern. Just as well, because the day before we'd heard the news: a Russian military ship had fired warning shots at a sailing yacht that came too close. It became the running gag as we set sail - friends messaged to say we should steer clear of Russian ships. We assured everyone we had no intention of arguing with the Russian Navy.

A Midsummer Night at Sea

This time we had the luxury of waiting for wind from behind, which is so much more comfortable. We poled out the headsail and had such a lovely crossing. There wasn't much wind - just enough to keep the sails up and helping us along under motor - but the direction was perfect and the sea was gentle.

Just a few hours out on the Bristol Channel we got a VHF call from a Belgian yacht we'd seen in Milford Marina. They'd left shortly after us, heading south too. We were a bit ahead of them and they were asking about the conditions - and if we spoke French. To the embarrassment of our education - we both learned French at school, some years ago - we had to admit our French is not exactly conversational. The chat was rather short, but fun.

Then, just when we went properly offshore and you start thinking about grabbing a book, the dolphins arrived. They joined us for at least forty minutes - bow riding the whole time, jumping out in front of us, showing off. They are beautiful creatures and Andrea could watch them for hours. They never get boring.

We settled into our usual three-hours-on, three-hours-off watch system. Nights were still surprisingly cold - thermals even in midsummer - and our route crossed waters we knew well. In fact, we were following almost exactly the same track we'd taken years ago when bringing Lagertha to the Isle of Man. Some routes seem determined to pull you back.

Andrea took the sunset shift. The sun sank slowly into a flat, oily sea - a red hot ball of fire dipping lower and lower until it swallowed the last bit of light. There is a small green flash just as it disappears. If you're lucky, you might catch it.

The sunrise was just as magnificent. A midsummer night at sea, with almost no one else around.

Land Fall

The islands are so flat you need to be quite close until they can be seen. We arrived in New Grimsby in the late morning, and Rob treated Andrea to fresh waffles. After a night at sea, warm waffles somehow felt like exactly the right welcome.

We'd fallen in love with the Isles of Scilly last summer, but only had a few days before turning back for the Isle of Man. We'd always promised ourselves we'd return - and this time we intended to stay long enough to enjoy it properly. St Martin's was our favourite wild island last time, but the moorings at New Grimsby gave us peace of mind. Leave the boat on a solid buoy, go exploring, and not worry about the anchor dragging. That and the Abbey Gardens made this island so special.

This time we were looking forward to seeing more of the island and trying some of the lovely cafes and restaurants. Tresco is polished and upscale, but it has such a relaxed vibe - brilliant service and great quality.

The mooring buoys are solid and well maintained by Tresco. They come to the boats in a dinghy to collect the mooring fees - very convenient.

White Sands and Fresh Lobster

That same afternoon, with the boat secured on a Tresco mooring, we took the dinghy over to Bryher. White sand, clear water, a warm summer day - the kind of place that doesn't feel like England at all.

We had a late afternoon meal at Island Fish - fresh lobster with wedges and a glass of something cold. Exactly what we'd been hoping for. We weren't the only ones who thought so. Very cheeky little birds kept trying to steal bits from our plates - entertaining and persistent.

After eating we took a leisurely stroll around Bryher, towards Hell's Bay. Friends had demanded we have a drink at the Hell's Bay Hotel, and it was beautiful indeed. A refreshing drink, a warm breeze, and the kind of afternoon that makes you forget there's a boat to get back to.

We did get back, eventually, for the sunset and a quiet warm summer evening at anchor.

Tresco and Old Grimsby

The next morning, gusty conditions kept us on board. We still need to learn to trust our small electric outboard - in a blow, the dinghy trip to shore feels like a bigger decision than it should.

Finally the wind eased and we made our way to Tresco Island. We'd already visited the Abbey Gardens last year - a remarkable subtropical garden built around the ruins of a Benedictine abbey, filled with plants from the southern hemisphere. Nearby is the Valhalla Collection, where figureheads salvaged from Scilly shipwrecks tell stories of the islands' maritime past.

Our intention this time was to go to the other side of the island and check out the anchorage at Old Grimsby. Turns out Old Grimsby is even more lovely than New Grimsby, and there are moorings too if you don't want to anchor. Stunning white beaches and St Helen's Pool can be seen from there too. We could easily have spent another week here. If our plans weren't to head further south, this would have been the next stop.

The Ruins Cafe

The Ruins Cafe was the perfect place to have dinner. Even Andrea, who rarely drinks these days, couldn't resist the St Ives Limoncello Spritz. Celebrating a wonderful summer evening with stunning views, we enjoyed the place before heading back to our floating home.

Looking South

We could have stayed. The Isles of Scilly had given us everything - dolphins, midsummer sunsets, fresh lobster, white beaches, and the kind of long warm evenings you don't want to end. And there was more to explore.

But there was a weather window opening, and across the channel lay somewhere we'd never been. Brittany. A new coastline, a new language, and another adventure waiting beyond the horizon.

Sometimes the best thing about a perfect few days is knowing when to leave.